The market for conversions first started as a bit of a gold rush a few years ago now but in recent times the differential in prices is now starting to normalize, still typically (except for rare cases for odd ball models like 612’s) you at least get the cost of your conversion back. In other rarer cases the profits can still exist but they are getting much more risky for investor/flipper types alone. There are far safer ways to make money for majority of people.

The more you look into gated conversions the more you see the need to really trust in the people doing it. It’s a potential minefield and it really does make sense to use the best kits, best practices and best installers if you want it done right first time and without compromising your vehicles safety or future maintenance.

I would suggest there are actually many more pertinent questions to ask beyond just who supplied the parts to do a conversion. Almost all kits these days have evolved to the point where they can all be more or less made to work OK. Even if some are better than others in some regards, some extra bell or whistle. Obviously, some kits have a much higher quality than others with better tolerances, better materials and premium features, so in longevity terms your mileage may vary between suppliers, but that’s by far not the biggest guarantee of an overall quality end result. Even if the parts fitted are all genuine factory ones from a factory gated breaker car it still doesn’t guarantee success. Let’s dive into some of the factors which separate the best conversions.

Installation

Without doubt the installation can make or break the end result and is probably one of the most critical elements of any conversion. I would be much more concerned about the level of experience of the installer than just the choice of kit. Their real world experience of fitting the kit used on your exact model and how well they tackle dismantling and refitting of all the parts and interior trim. How that trim is stored, did it get damaged or scuffed, was it left on the floor? Any rattles, vibrations, broken clips? Even something like torqueing of bolts, for instance are your seat belt bolts torqued down to the correct spec from the workshop manuals if the seats were removed for easier access? If corners where cut during or even before the conversion began in terms of the ethos of the kit. E.g. made to be as cheap as possible, or if the cutting of corners was even recommended by the kit supplier to save costs to make their solution appear cheaper than it really should be, you conversion could already be in trouble.

For example did the installer simply cut down the original brake pedal (a very obviously visual compromise in my opinion), Rather than fit a brand new perfectly matched full set of drilled pedals? I would want all three pedals to look the same and I couldn’t live with a cut and shut job that some people do. It’s just wrong on a Ferrari in my opinion.

Software

The first question that needs asking is did the conversion use a proper factory gated software methods? Is the engine operating in true gated mode? The factory had different ECU’s for Manual cars vs AMT cars for very important reasons. Some people try to avoid the correct factory method of re-flashing using gated specific software specific to the cars original assembly number and production dates. This is in an attempt to cut costs and is always a compromise. One that could cost you dearly in the longer run.

I’ve seen all kinds of things attempted. Some hacks try to work by fitting an aftermarket external cheat box which tries to fake the signals that a healthy working transmission computer (TCU) would transmit. All these boxes therefore tend to do is to emulate “CAN bus” messages so that the CEL’s do not to come on in the instrument cluster. A kind of digital way of putting black tape over the light. Of course this means as far as the engine is concerned it still thinks its running in F1 mode and you may or may not know but Motronic has different calibration and safety strategies for AMT mode driving vs Gated so you are really asking for trouble if you do this. This results in all the manual safeties being removed and with a human rowing gears you are risking engine or gearbox damage, even if not right away. It can even make the car easier to stall. Even the limiters and ignition timing are different on F1 vs gated. It really is taking unnecessary and completely avoidable risks.

More crudely some people use the just “suck it and see” approach which is almost as bad, using in essence a mismatched “cross flash” (*cross flashing means using the wrong software regardless of the consequences). This results in a car which often cannot pass emissions tests (on 2005+ MY cars) or breaks functionality such as compatibility with the E-Diff (on say an F430 and beyond) or has issues with anti-stall and all kinds of other detailed control strategies. It’s a total minefield unless you use experienced professionals who knows Ferrari Bosch engine management inside and out you are back into compromise land.

Factory differences

What about the clutch throw out bearing and fluids? Did they go down the OEM correct route of swapping them so there is no chance of some unknowing mechanic further down the line using the wrong fluids during a service? No matter what people claim not doing this will just cause headaches down the line with potential to wreak havoc on your car causing lots of work and costs incurred. Especially true if you are buying a previously converted car with no detailed notes on what was done and how it was done. Trying to use alternative fluids with an F1 bearing rather than using the factory gated bearing is yet another example of cutting corners that the factory wouldn’t sanction or except and neither should you.

Then there is the whole debate about use of ridged pipes vs flexible hoses and if expansion of aftermarket hoses would make things feel spongy. Clutch feel, shift feel, the whole nine yards. I know there have been many threads on this. As you can see for many people it is well beyond their own knowledge and skills to do a competent job, people down play how much effort it is but it is really not as easy or as quick as they claim and I would factor in at least $10,000 just to fit it properly with the correct approaches, of course this may vary in cheap labor areas but this is just to give you some ball park ideas. It could even be considerably more if repairs are required before the conversion is undertaken. New clutches, flywheels, bearings and other routine servicing are often required during this kind of undertaking so costs can quickly escalate.

This all sounds rather scary right?

I would say “knowledge” dispels fear and once you understand the whole process (which differs between models) you realize there really isn’t really a major problem to convert between AMT and gated (either way really) but it’s far from easy. It is time consuming but not super ‘invasive’. As long as you keep your original parts and do things in an easily reversible way (cutting a brake pedal down isn’t really easy to reverse for example). Done right, everything is reversible so it is not as intrusive as say a wide-body conversion or respray or something as extreme as that. After all the original gearbox does not get swapped, it is just after all the actuator and a manual mechanism to select and engage/disengage the clutch that needs the most attention. Sounds simple but in reality the number of decisions and parts to dismantle means it needs to be done with care and attention. It is really true the more you do it the better you get, assuming you care and learn from your mistakes.

If we take into consideration the “bigger picture” which involves deep diving into an individual converted car, how it has been done, what compromises (if any) where made, you’ll see it takes considerable experience and knowledge to appraise a converted car properly and I feel this is the elephant in the room for anyone looking to purchase one. Even factory trained Ferrari technicians may not possess the necessary skills until they get experienced with the nuances of validating the quality variance of different approaches.

It is very hard to ascertain if the quality is good and if the conversion done well and if is to OEM or if it even exceeds OEM specs. Which is also possible too, especially on the 599 with the rare factory gated cars being half finished so actually suffered from issues like rev-drop or poor off tender battery life). If you an experienced gated shifter and enjoy “heel and toe” then maybe even a revised flash on a factory car is a good idea to improve on the experience.

The variability of home conversions is very dependent on the experience and resistance not to cut corners or have purchased the correct tools and know the correct methods to dismantle and re-install interior parts for example without causing damage or further issues. Or even following basics like torqueing down bolts to factory specs. Its tedious and time consuming to do this all right.

Another observation that people do not ever consider is the overall quality of the original car before it was converted, especially if they are buying one already done. I saw that a lot of F1 cars that went in to be converted had issues with the original F1 system which was one of the original decisions for converting in the first place. Often many of those cars purchased specifically to be converted tended to be sticky cars and where very cheap at the bottom of the pricing scale a not just because of a faulty f1 system but because the overall condition of the car wasn’t great. Again this a generalization but it particularly applies to a lot of 360’s and F430’s bought specifically for flipping, which had all kinds of other issues lurking. No surprise that some of these gated conversions don’t do so well in resales. It doesn’t mean all conversions are like this you just need to be aware of this when looking to buy a pre-existing conversion. Look at the whole car.

The market for conversions first started as a bit of a gold rush a few years ago now but in recent times the differential in prices is now starting to normalize and for bad examples they may not even match a good quality F1 car in terms of resale, still typically (except for rare cases for odd ball models like 612’s) you at least get the cost of your conversion back. In other rarer cases the profits can still exist but they are getting much more risky for investor/flipper types alone. There are far safer ways to make money!

Unlike many other things you can do to your Ferrari, gated conversions lack industry-wide standards or best practices, it’s a niche, developing industry and not at all mature. Each approach is often very different, with kit components and installation options varying significantly between sellers, even more so across different models, creating a dynamic and complex landscape with many things that can be done wrong or even fail thousands of miles after being installed.

While initial cost plays a key role in decision making for some, focusing solely on headline ‘kit price’ risks overlooking crucial factors like longer term long-term reliability, and installation quality, use of correct approach for software and not taking easy options out. Prioritizing quality and correct installation details requires thorough research and not all the answers can be found online. The success of a conversion hinges on numerous factors, including being very specific to any given model, chosen kit, installer’s expertise and previous experience, even geographical location can make a difference because of subtle software differences. A “one-size-fits-all” approach rarely applies.

If thinking about a conversion if possible, test drive several converted cars, scrutinize online information, and consider contacting Ferrari master techs for insights. Don’t rely solely on forum discussions or vendor claims – there is way too much noise to sift through. What is the shift quality like, how sloppy does the gate feel, is it precise and accurate, is there any resistance to shifting, do you get a metal click clack on harder shifts, does it engage without any issues in every gear. How does it feel when warm vs hot (even the standard gated Ferrari’s can feel notchy when cold). Is the conversion a 1:1 shift clone or has there been any improvements made such as a quick shifter or weight reduction or both?

Professional fitting is recommended and often includes addressing underlying issues which may be present before beginning that could jeopardize the conversion’s success and detecting other problems which need rectifying along the way. Even assembly and disassembly can present problems for less experienced whom break clips, damaging costly interior parts or cause rattles or fit things back incorrectly. Very few DIY-er’s for example if they break a clip will go and order replacements and go and re-visit or fix any trim issues they cause.

Beware of Shortcuts because I see many people cutting corners during installation or using unproven methods can negatively impact performance, reliability, and overall resale value of the vehicle. Seek conversions that adhere to factory-like standards and quality. I’ve even heard of conversions gone wrong where people have inadvertently damaged ageing wiring looms beyond repair by resting heavy exhaust components on brittle looms resulting in absolutely astronomical repair costs.

The field is rapidly evolving, with products and techniques constantly changing. Up-to-date information is crucial. Historical information may be outdated, especially on feature comparisons and prices.

The optimal approach for each conversion will differ based on specific variables. Gated conversions present a lot of challenges and potential headaches. Thorough research, prioritizing quality over cost, and seeking out experienced professionals are crucial to successfully navigating this complex landscape and maximizing the enjoyment of your converted car.

I think in summary it’s a lot more difficult to do than people think unless you go in eyes wide open. No wonder people suggest to “just buy a factory gated”, unfortunately it is never that easy, there are some benefits to gated conversions which may not be available with stock manuals such as lower weight or quick shifts, or even non stretch cables or rods. And of course having the cars driving modes tailored towards your own preferences is also advisable too, such as ability to heel and toe. So much to think about…

Is it worth it? Only you can decide that!